Albania: A Photo Guide and Journal

Albania has captured my interest for quite some time now. I think maybe it’s because I don’t often see many posts about it online as a travel destination. In addition, the posts I often saw were of the country’s beaches. And don’t get me wrong the beaches are beautiful, but I was looking for something more than the beach holiday. I was looking to travel and explore!

Dajti Express: cable car ride at sunset with Tirana in the background

Albania is nestled in southeastern Europe’s Balkan peninsula. Its shores kiss the Adriatic and Ionian seas giving it a lovely Mediterranean climate. It is bordered by Greece to the south, Montenegro to the northwest and Kosovo to the northeast. Given its location, Albania has been the gateway for many nations and empires looking to expand their territory. Evidence of these previous regimes’ influence can still be very well observed in the infrastructure across Albania. In particular, the Ottoman Empire which at one point had closed off Albania from the rest of the Western world. So, If you’re a little bit of a history buff and into architecture, you would love Albania.

Stone houses on the hillside of Old Town, Gjirokastra in southern Albania

In this blog, I will share with you some snapshots, general travel advice, and spots to visit and explore. In particular, Tirana, the capital and Gjirokastra in the south. I went last September, partly on a whim as I was aching to travel again! I basically did everything DIY from my accommodations to the regional bus to Gjirokastra from Tirana. So this is me sharing my 5-day solo adventure to Albania.

PART I: Tirana

Albania’s capital and largest city, Tirana was not my intended destination in the country. It was just a stopover before I headed further south to Gjrokastra. However, it surprised me! Tirana has a certain charm to it that made me feel a bit nostalgic in a way. Needless to say, I wish I had allocated a bit more time for Tirana. Essentially I stayed for a total of two separate days but wished I stayed longer. I will be coming back!

Arriving in Tirana

Tirana will be your gateway into the country. At the moment, the country’s only international airport is located here. The airport is roughly around half an hour away from the city centre. You will also have the option to rent a car from the airport, take a taxi or in my case take the airport bus towards the city centre. Taking the bus will cost you 400 LEK which is only around 3.50 Euros. The buses leave every hour and take you right into the city centre near Skanderbeg Square, the focal point in the city. Make sure you have coins with you as public transport will only accept cash. There are cash machines in the airport and around the city centre as well.

The city’s central point is Skanderbeg Square, named after the country‘s national hero. It is a huge square where people convene to relax and meet with friends and family. Local festivals and celebrations are also celebrated here. I was fortunate that when I was there, an expo was ongoing. So, there were stalls of food and local produce and products being sold. It was really a festive and cheerful vibe.

Surrounding Skanderbeg Square is a city infrastructure that is an amalgamation of old and new. Remnants of Albania’s tumultuous past can be seen around the city, neutralized by colourful street art and modern buildings.

Albania has been known for its dark past during the fascist era. It is amazing to see how the country has since then been reborn and is slowly growing into its own beauty and splendour. Bunk’Art is a unique and amazing way of learning about Albania’s recent history. When Albania was under the reign of communist leader Enver Hoxa, he commissioned the building of over 170,000 bunkers all over Albania as a way of fortifying the country from outside attacks.

These brutalist domes have become a stark reminder of Albania’s hostile past. Nowadays, these bunkers have become derelict and abandoned. In the case of one particular dome in the city centre, Bunk’Art 2, has been converted into a subterranean museum aiming to educate the public on how the Communist regime had persecuted those considered as an enemy of the regime. It holds hundreds of photographs, artefacts and video statements from survivors of those times. It’s a surreal experience going through the tunnels and rooms getting glimpses of how it was back then. It’s a sombre walk-through. However, at the same time, you get to realise how far Albania has come from its communist past.

The House of Leaves is a two-storey building that was originally an Obstetrics clinic. However, it became more widely known as the Headquarters of the Albanian Secret Surveillance Police during the Cold War. Wandering through the rooms of this building you will see the various surveillance and interrogation techniques that the regime employed on its citizens. Footages from hidden cameras in everyday objects, various equipment and documents are displayed in this museum. Photos are not allowed inside the building. The museum is open every day from 9 am to 7 pm. A ticket is 700 LEK (6.66 Euros).

The House of Leaves - this is very much a must-visit!

On the lighter side of things, one of my favourite places to have visited in Tirana is the Grand Park of Tirana which features a large man-made lake. It’s a perfect place to end the day and rest your feet while having a drink and a snack maybe. It’s a bit of a walk from the city centre but nonetheless very much walkable!

Porcelan Buses: Blue buses from behind the clock tower in the city tower. As you get on, inform the driver that you will be going to the Dajti Express.

From the city centre, you can take the blue bus to Dajti Express, a cable car ride up the mountains to a spectacular view of the city and surrounding landscape. The cable car line operates six days a week apart from Tuesday when it is closed. A return ticket on the cable car was a bit on the pricy side for Albanian standards at 14 Euros or 1400 LEK. However, in my opinion, it was worth it and definitely a cannot be missed experience when in Tirana.

The cable car runs every day from 9 am to 6 pm, except for Tuesdays when it is closed. Once you reach the top there are also other activities you can do. there is an adventure park, hiking, mini golf, and even paragliding. There is also a hotel that you can opt to stay in for a night or two, and a rotating cafe offering you breathtaking views as you sip your coffee or enjoy a meal. You can go on to their website to check schedules and more details.

Getting around: there are taxis available, however, I’d say taking the bus is far cheaper. However, card payment is not accepted on public transport- you will pay on the bus for a ticket at around 40 LEK (.38 Euros)

Bazaar inside the ruins of the Fortress of Justinian or sometimes known as Tirana Castle

Toptani Mall

My stay in Tirana was fleeting, to say the least. I will definitely come back and explore the city more. However, overall I found the city to be endearing and charming in its own right. There is a sense of familiarity and nostalgia that I felt in my short stay. The people are very warm and nice. The vibe is chill and laidback, although it does get busy- it’s not hectic and chaotic. It is a breath of fresh air from the many metropolitan cities one would usually see in other countries.

Albania is truly becoming one of Europe’s up-and-coming destinations. I am looking forward to coming back and exploring its other cities. Perhaps up north this time. Meanwhile, I will be posting about my travel down south to Gjirokastra in another separate blog entry soon!