Gjirokaster
Lying in a valley in southern Albania is breathtaking Gjirokaster. Dubbed as the city of stone, this quaint ancient town is a UNESCO world heritage site. It is one of four said sites in Albania. Gjirokaster is famously known for its stone houses, cobbled streets that meander and slope down the hillsides, and one of Albania’s largest castles. The town’s characteristic architecture is credited to the Ottoman Empire. Gjirokaster is known to be one of a few rare examples of a well-preserved Ottoman town.
Above: a view of the Old Town from the Gjirokaster castle
Getting There
Your journey starts in Tirana, the country’s capital. You can either rent a car, take a hired taxi or take a furgon, the local equivalent of a minibus or van. I went for the latter option to experience how locals travel and because I don’t have a driver’s license yet. It is also the cheapest option. Typically, they will cost you around 12-15 Euros whereas a hired taxi will cost hundreds of Euros depending on the destination. There are also organized group and private tours available but obviously, these will also cost you more. On the other hand, taking the furgon minibuses will take a little bit more effort on your part. For instance, they don’t have a specific timetable, therefore you need to go to the terminal and ask around for the right furgon going to your destination. The drivers or an assistant will be calling at bus departures and destinations for each vehicle. You cannot book your tickets online so it’s best to go to the terminal early and ask. The drivers only take cash as with most transactions in Albania. A ticket to Gjirokaster will cost around 13 Euros one way.
The travel time from Tirana to Gjirokaster is around 4 hours. Although the furgon minibuses are airconditioned, leg room and space are limited. Hence, consider the luggage you’re taking with you. Additional luggage storage is available however, you may be charged separately. It is also worth considering that there will be several stops along the way, as passengers get on and off the van. Please be guided that locals also use these vehicles as their daily transport into and out of the capital. The furgon minibuses will stop along the highway, by a gas station just at the bottom of a hill slope to where Gjirokaster Old Town Center is located. It is a bit of a climb but doable, or if you wish you can hire a taxi up the hill to the Old Town. Across the same highway is a terminal for furgon minibuses. You will get your ride here back to Tirana. Once again, they take payments only in cash and there is no fixed timetable.
Above: Gjirokaster New Town
Where to Stay :
There are lots of accommodation available in the Old Town. I stayed in an Airbnb. However, there are many hostels available around as well as hotels depending on your needs and preference. The Old Town is compact and could easily be traversed in one day, therefore people often visit Gjirokaster for a day trip. I stayed for two nights simply because I wanted to take it in and was not really in a rush. Staying in the city also allowed me the luxury of exploring the city early in the morning, before the majority of tourists came. Gjirokaster in the early hours is serene and peaceful. Cool air and the mountains around make for a very calming, peaceful walk.
Places of Interest
Gjirokaster Castle. Perched on top of a hill, this magnificent fortress is perhaps the most prominent site in the city. It is still being debated as to when was it built but archeologists estimate it to be around the 4th to 5th century. Inside the castle grounds, you will see the magnificent clock tower, the festival scene, the castle museum and the breathtaking views of the Old Town below. I visited just before sunset when the crowds have already gone. The castle grounds also house an old US Air Force jet. It is still unclear how it got there. Some say it was downed during the Cold War, while others say that it was a spy plane forced to do an emergency landing at a nearby airport. Tickets cost 400 Albanian Lek or 4 Euros. The castle opens from 9 AM until 5-7PM depending on the season.
Skenduli House. Over 300 years old, this house is thought to be the most authentic and well-preserved Ottoman house in Gjirokaster. It has belonged to the same family over many generations. The house offers a glimpse into the life of a rich family during the Ottoman Empire. It has 12 rooms, 9 fireplaces, 6 bathrooms and hammam baths! A highlight is a special hall-like room used for wedding ceremonies. An entrance fee is 200 Lek or 2 Euros. the house is open for visitors from 9 AM onwards. A tour guide will greet you by the entrance.
Old Town Bazaar. The bazaar is probably the liveliest part of Old Town. Stone paths and alleys are lined with shops selling a bounty of handicrafts and souvenirs from colourful woven bags and rugs, to ceramic pots and plates, to the traditional tourist souvenir that is the sought-after fridge magnets! There are also plenty of places to eat from the traditional to the the quick and easy snack. Below are some snapshots of the Bazaar. Click on each image to enlarge.
Zekate House. This is another traditional old house in Gjirokaster. It was built around 1811 by Ali Pasha as a gift for one of his administrators. It sits on top of a steep hill and the climb can be challenging. However, the view from the top is worth it! Not to mention you have the castle in view as well. It is well taken care of and is now managed by a couple, who live nearby. The entrance fee is only 250 Lek or 2.49 Euros. As with many of the houses from the Ottoman era, Zekate house has two majestic towers, three floors and several rooms. There is a lovely garden with a patio shaded by grapevines with a fantastic view of the Old Town and the river valley.
Ethnographic Museum. Located where the original childhood home of former dictator Enver Hoxha stands, the museum houses various artefacts from the past and traditional folk costumes. There are also video clips and audio recordings from Albania’s tumultuous past. It is a must-visit if you’re looking to learn about the region’s story.
Ali Pasha Bridge. Constructed in 1811 by then-Ottoman governor Ali Pasha, this 12-metre-long aqueduct supplied drinking water to the city from the mountains. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to visit this site. The bridge is about a 30-minute hike from Gjirokaster. If you’re going in summer, remember to bring hydration and good shoes as it can be extremely hot and the terrain not so straightforward.
The Obelisk Monument. Located on a hill within the Old Town Center, this monument was erected to give tribute to education in Albania. the site is adjacent to where the first Albanian school was opened in 1908. It is significant to note that, during Ottoman rule, Albanians were not allowed to use their own language in their schools. Apart from history, the site also offers a spectacular view of the mountains and valleys and the old town. This is another great spot to end the day and watch the sunset!
Gjirokaster is one of the prettiest Old Towns I have visited! The stone houses and cobbled stones seem straight out of a storybook. It is a glimpse into what the region may have been like centuries before. If you’re looking for more than the usual seaside trip in Albania, visit Gjirokaster. I recommend staying at least a day or two to experience the Old Town truly. It is definitely a must when you visit Albania!
